At the end of the Thach Han River

The Thach Han River is the longest river in Quang Tri province, nearly 160 kilometers long, originating from the eastern Truong Son mountain range. The river has witnessed many of the nation's long marches to defend the homeland, both against French colonialism and American imperialism, and to save the country. Flowing through many peaceful villages, it has created fertile lands and is the birthplace of many figures who have left a significant mark on the history of the homeland.

The river's identity is defined by its water source: the sweat of the rocks, as many artists explain, specifically through the song "Sweat of the Rocks" by Xuan Vu. From Vung Kho village in Dakrong commune, Dakrong district, Quang Tri province, near the Trans-Asian Highway 9, the river merges two sources: Rao Quan (Huong Hoa district) and Dakrong (Dakrong district), before continuing downstream. Passing through the Ba Long War Zone, it becomes known as the Ba Long River, then continues downstream to Hai Lang and Trieu Phong, merging with the Hieu River from Cam Lo (Quang Tri) before emptying into Cua Viet.

At the confluence of the rivers, in the village of Vụng Kho, lies the place where King Hàm Nghi and his entourage left their footprints during their arduous journey fighting against the French. The Vân Kiều people here recount that, near the Bông Kho bridge, a giant copper pot was unearthed. It is a relic commemorating the journey of the group from Tân Sở citadel (Cam Lộ) along the mountain road to Hương Sơn ( Hà Tĩnh ) during the Cần Vương movement to resist the French. In the Bru-Vân Kiều language, "kho" means pot, hence the name Vụng Kho village.

The Thach Han River section passing through Bac Phuoc islet (Quang Tri province).

It can be said that the upper reaches of the Han River are powerful, like a strong, robust Van Kieu man, overcoming many rapids and fierce currents, then gentle and profound in the plains like a Kinh woman with many graceful and romantic features... The Han River is the main river in the consciousness of the people of Quang Tri. Together with Mai Linh mountain in Krong Klang town (Dakrong district), it forms a symbolic pair of Mai Linh mountain and Han River, similar to the Perfume River and Ngu Mountain in Hue ; and An Mountain and Tra River in Quang Tri...

Before flowing into the open sea, the Thach Han River merged with the Hieu River, leaving behind alluvial deposits that formed fertile islets such as Con Nong and Bac Phuoc right near the estuary. Bac Phuoc islet previously comprised three villages: Duong Xuan, Duy Phien, and Ha La. These have now merged into one village called Bac Phuoc. The islet has a lagoon system with all three types of water – freshwater, brackish, and saltwater – making it a miniature version of the Tam Giang lagoon system in Thua Thien Hue province. Because of this characteristic, the fish and shrimp here are very diverse and considered among the best in Quang Tri province.

Surrounded by water on all sides, during the flood season, the river rises high, the water swirling violently, and the small island, like a leaf in the current, seems easily swept away by the wrath of nature. In the old days, crossing to the island required a ferry. The ferry landing for passengers was located at Con Dong in An Cu village, on the right bank of the river. An Cu has long been famous for its scholarly achievements and high-ranking officials. Perhaps the most famous was Duke Nguyen Van Tuong, a renowned official who played a significant role in the Nguyen dynasty. He served as the district magistrate of Thanh Hoa (present-day Huong Hoa, Dakrong, and Cam Lo), so he was well-versed in the local geography, geography, and people's sentiments. Therefore, he conceived and built Tan So citadel in Cua region, Cam Lo district, preparing for the Can Vuong movement against the French later on. From the imperial capital of Hue, provisions and weapons traveled along the O Lau River, Vinh Dinh River, to the Thach Han River, then along the Hieu River to Cam Lo and finally to Cua region.

Going back nearly 500 years, this estuary also witnessed the entourage of Lord Nguyen Hoang traveling along the Han River to establish their capital at Phu Sa Hill in Ai Tu, beginning their expansion into the South. Now, crossing the islet is no longer done by ferry as before. A magnificent bridge has been built across the river, providing convenience and connecting the islet to both banks. People in the village still recall the old saying of the islet's inhabitants: "First Uncle Thich, second the chairman." Uncle Thich was a long-time ferryman on the islet. To cross the river, one had to rely on the ferry, and Uncle Thich became more important than the village chairman. This somewhat humorous comparison clearly shows the importance of the ferryman during the difficult times for this homeland.

The island's population is only about 300 households, whose main occupations are fishing along the river and lagoons, and shrimp farming. Due to the acidic, brackish water, rice cultivation yields low productivity, with only one crop per year. However, the red rice, also known as saltwater rice, is very famous here. It's a dry, hard-to-chew rice, but it has become a sought-after product when people visit the island. And today, Bac Phuoc red rice has become a specialty that can be transported by plane and train to many places; it's become a valuable gift when mentioning the island. Currently, the area of red rice cultivation is gradually decreasing, giving way to shrimp ponds. Bac Phuoc red rice, already precious, is now becoming even rarer.

Right on the riverbank in Ha La village is Bac Phuoc market. In the mornings, it's bustling; on the shore, people buy fish, while on the river, boats from Cua Viet, Trieu An, and Trieu Do, having fished all night, stop by to unload their catch. From here, the fish and shrimp are transported by passenger buses to various districts and towns to supply customers. The furthest destination is the Lao Bao border, even into neighboring Laos. The market is quick and brief, but the products are abundant. Besides fish and shrimp, other indispensable products of this delta region include seaweed, tapioca starch (cassava flour) grown locally, and various snacks that reflect the unique riverine culture.

The island covers an area of approximately 4 square kilometers. It is surrounded by a rather imposing dike. Extending from the dike are mangrove forests, primarily consisting of the Sonneratia caseolaris tree. These mangrove forests provide shelter from storms and are home to fish, shrimp, and various species of egrets and cranes. The island has about 100 hectares of water surface; they have formed a cooperative where they collectively cultivate and share the profits at the end of the year.

The largest is Duy Phien Lagoon, which boasts a near-perfect ecosystem allowing fish and shrimp to grow naturally without artificial feeding. Those who manage the lagoon only need to purchase high-quality fry, release them, and then harvest them during the fishing season. Therefore, the fish and shrimp here are considered clean food, confidently consumed by customers everywhere. Annually, the profits from renting the lagoon are reinvested in irrigation canals, public welfare projects, and cultural facilities in the village. After accounting, the remaining profit is divided equally among the households. As a result, for many years, each spring, local residents receive a windfall of around 2 million VND per person. This income is a gift from nature to this land.

Despite being only 15 kilometers from the provincial capital of Dong Ha, the island boasts a truly peaceful atmosphere, a captivating retreat with its rivers, forests, and flocks of cranes and storks. This tranquil natural setting, combined with its rich cuisine, has drawn many visitors seeking relaxation.

Visitors to the islet can never forget the sour soup made with snakehead fish or catfish. There was a time when you could catch snakehead fish just by walking along the riverbank and turning over stones. Picking a handful of small tomatoes from the garden was enough to make a delicious bowl of soup. This area is famous for its pickled vegetables, and according to locals, the sourness of the water is what makes the pickles so crispy and delicious. There's also a rather unique way of cooking a quick soup here. Fresh fish caught from the lagoon are washed clean, but not gutted (because the fish eat natural food, their intestines are fragrant and fatty). A pot of water is brought to a rolling boil, then the fish is added. Minced shallots, onions, and chili peppers are added, and salt is added when the fish boils again. This is the famous quick soup; it's more flavorful than regular soup but milder than the traditional stewed version. A bowl of hot red rice with this soup is absolutely delicious. The pungent spiciness of the chili peppers, the bitterness and richness of the fish create a unique and unforgettable flavor combination. Eating it while savoring the aroma and sweating profusely, one still praises it profusely. Locals explain that the deliciousness of this fish soup comes from the fresh, wild fish and, especially, the water source. The water is what makes it so special. Therefore, when visitors from Dong Ha city, Quang Tri town, and surrounding areas come to the island to buy fish and fish, they never forget to bring some of the water to cook with it in the authentic way!

Standing amidst the independence and freedom of today, during these historic April days, I envision a day when my island homeland becomes a resting place for tourists. With the necessary natural conditions, all that's needed are appropriate policies and models for the island to transform. Besides the above, perhaps nowhere else is there a place like this downstream of the Han River where people sleep without locking their doors, and every year, the profits from fishing are distributed equally among households after deducting infrastructure investments.

Text and photos: YEN MA SON

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Source: https://baodaknong.vn/noi-cuoi-nguon-thach-han-251385.html