Portland: Discover a restaurant that brings Hanoi flavors to America

Honored by The New York Times, The Paper Bridge in Portland is causing a stir with its authentic Northern-style bun cha and bun dau, forcing diners to book tables months in advance.

In Portland, Oregon, a Vietnamese restaurant called The Paper Bridge is creating a culinary craze after being named one of the 50 best restaurants in America by The New York Times. Reservations are fully booked through December, a testament to the appeal of the restaurant’s authentic northern dishes.

Run by Hanoian Quynh Nguyen and her husband, chef Carlo Reina, The Paper Bridge is not only a place to eat but also a cultural space where authentic Vietnamese flavors are cherished and introduced to international friends.

A journey bringing Northern flavors to the heart of America

Quynh and Carlo met in Vietnam, sharing a passion for food, especially dishes from the Northwest region. After 5 years, they decided to move to the US and open a restaurant with the desire to introduce a deeper and more diverse perspective on Vietnamese cuisine, beyond familiar dishes like pho or banh mi.

The Paper Bridge opened in November 2023, facing many initial difficulties. The number of customers decreased after the first few weeks, many people complained about the texture of fresh noodles and pho because they were used to the packaged dry type. However, with perseverance and belief in quality, the couple gradually won over customers.

Ms. Quynh and her husband took photos inside the room that recreates Vietnamese sidewalk culture at The Paper Bridge restaurant. Photo: NVCC

"Stubborn" menu: Keep the original taste

With a menu of about 30 dishes, The Paper Bridge focuses on Northern specialties such as bun cha, pho bo, Van Dinh roast duck and salty fried cakes. Ms. Quynh affirmed that the recipe is kept original, not mixed to suit local tastes. "If anyone doesn't like it, they have to accept it, but I want to promote authentic Vietnamese culinary culture," she shared.

The restaurant’s signature dish is Hanoi-style bun cha. Although she can’t use charcoal due to complicated regulations, she got creative by grilling pork skin and using the liquid that comes out to create a distinctive smoky flavor. Even more picky dishes like bun dau mam tom or cha ca La Vong are popular with American customers.

Bun cha dish at the restaurant. Photo: NVCC

To retain customers, the restaurant has adopted a strategy of adding three special dishes each month. The most recent are Phu Tay Ho snail noodle soup, buffalo skin salad and pa pinh top – a Thai fish dish, bringing new and interesting experiences.

A portion of Phu Tay Ho snail noodle soup has just been added to the menu. Photo: NVCC

Overcoming the challenge of raw materials

Preserving the original flavor requires constant effort in finding ingredients. Many herbs such as perilla and oregano are available in the US but their flavor is not the same as in Vietnam. Typical spices such as cardamom or fresh noodle and pho making machines must be imported directly from Vietnam, leading to many difficulties in maintenance and repair.

Miniature Vietnamese cultural space

The Paper Bridge not only conquers diners with its food but also with its Vietnamese-style space. Ms. Quynh has dedicated a corner to recreate sidewalk culture with "concrete drilling and cutting" signs and typical green plastic chairs. Many other corners are decorated with Do paper and Dong Ho paintings. The restaurant also sells handmade products such as Dong Ho paintings and Bat Trang bowls and plates, helping Vietnamese culture penetrate the lives of local people.

The restaurant has gradually become an "information station" where people who are about to travel to Vietnam come to ask for advice. Ms. Quynh is always willing to share, contributing to creating beautiful connections between the two cultures.

Well-deserved results and a bright future

The recognition from The New York Times is a worthy reward for the tireless efforts of Quynh and her husband. With the current success, she is cherishing the plan to open another restaurant, while Carlo still dreams of writing a book about Vietnamese cuisine. Both believe that they will contribute to bringing Vietnamese cuisine to affirm its worthy position on the international map.

Source: https://baolamdong.vn/portland-kham-pha-quan-an-mang-huong-vi-ha-noi-den-my-397890.html