Vibrant 1920s Fashion Through the Eyes of an Italian Fashion House

A century on, Maximilian Davis reworks revolutionary-era liberation uniforms for his contemporary clientele.

As designers around the globe sought to define the 2020s on their vibrant runways, Maximilian Davis’ Ferragamo did so by referencing the liberation styles of the 1920s. For Fall/Winter 2024, the designer reworked the flared hems, soft textiles, dropped waists, and casual tailoring that defined the liberation era 100 years ago, building a wardrobe that both references the past and looks to the future.

“The 1920s used clothes as a way to celebrate freedom,” he said in his show notes. “And that expression of freedom is something that resonates with me, with my heritage, and with Ferragamo.”

Many of the brand’s next season’s garments focus on frugality. “In the 20s, in response to the world around them, people created their own space through speech,” Davis explains. “They hid what they were wearing until it was safe.” This inspiration came in the form of Ferragamo’s signature blanket coats that concealed the wearer’s inner lining. The pieces that were hidden underneath—shiny leather splits, lacquered organdie dresses, sequined dresses, sculptural formalwear—embodied his vibrant design language.

Davis also looked to fishermen’s uniforms from the era in his wardrobe research. On the runway, their stick-cast pieces were refined in the form of thigh-high waders and bulky leather outerwear. Their harsh construction contrasted with the free-flowing drapery that dominated the collection, with leather, cashmere and unlined leather taking center stage in bright, eye-catching hues.

For footwear, Davis took cues from the 1920s, revitalizing sweet satin pumps, T-shaped pumps, and strappy sandals from the Ferragamo archives. More masculine pieces included chunky derby shoes with block heels and the first functional boots. “I always strip things down,” Davis explains. “I like to take a rich piece of history and strip it down to make it cleaner, more modern.” Here, the designer effectively transforms a myriad of centuries-old classics into the present with his youthful statement.