Fendi 2024 is suitable for urban and country

“I worked on classics but I gave them a modern identity,” Silvia Venturini Fendi said backstage at the fashion house’s show.

Fendi’s Fall/Winter 2024 menswear collection has two parts. “I work with classics but I give them a modern identity. I call it urban and country,” designer Silvia Venturini Fendi said of the collection, backstage at the traditional Italian fashion house’s show on Saturday.

In a long hall in Milan, the catwalk was carved out of rows of seats in the shape of an “F.” The show opened with looks that mixed Venturini Fendi’s extreme inspirations: an oversized brown leather jacket held a burgundy sweater and gold buttons, while a green pleated miniskirt had a graceful rhythm to it with every step. The front row was packed with names including Kit Harrington, Massimiliano Caiazzo, Aaron Piper, Ed Mcvey, Jeremy Pope, James Franco, Lee Min Ho and Winston Duke, among others.

“Shorts really look like skirts, and they give a new style to everything,” Venturini Fendi explained. Feminine silhouettes were the unexpected highlight of the collection, which later appeared in heavy wools and thin cottons, similar to those typically found in work trousers. For Fendi, one of the industry’s biggest and most storied brands, to put so many skirts (many of which included miniskirts and flared skirts) on its menswear runway, we must have finally reached the peak of a once-controversial trend. The concept of men wearing skirts is becoming normalized – at least on the runway.

Venturini Fendi calls the collection’s outerwear designs “generous,” thanks to raglan shoulders, flat leather button tabs, and Selleria collars. The fisherman jacket and waterproof waxed jacket use the brand’s signature “FF” canvas, while the bomber jacket and commemorative peacoat are designed with trompe l’oeil fur-cut seams and piping. Meanwhile, denim and mohair are shredded and knitted to create fringed “furs” throughout the line.

Alongside dresses, miniskirts and flared skirts, Fendi’s bottoms also included a kaleidoscopic selection of wide-leg trousers. The velvet iterations came in blues, olives and mustards, while the trousers were predominantly green, burgundy and grey. “The trousers had two big pleats on the side,” Venturini Fendi added. “It was a completely different silhouette.” The change was subtle, but it was a testament to the designer’s ability to bend the rules of fashion with something remarkably current.

Models wore Fendi’s latest accessories, touting the new Siesta bag, which can be flattened like a pillow in quilted or striped shearling, and the Melon Hobo, which features FF chrome hardware. Meanwhile, the Peekaboo ISeeU Soft returned, along with a padded Baguette Soft Trunk; and Fendi also brought out platform shoes and Wellington boots in grained leather.

Hoai Huong (according to 24h.com.vn)

Classic horror film "Eyes Wide Shut" becomes fashion inspirationAnderson brought the film's memorable paintings to life in knitwear, collaborating with artist Christine Kubrick, Stanley's widow.

Stanley Kubrick's 1999 erotic mystery film Eyes Wide Shut served as a blueprint for JW Anderson's Fall/Winter 2024 collection.

“I’ve never looked at a film as a starting point before,” designer Jonathan Anderson admitted after the show, adding that he chose to revisit Kubrick’s classic in July for inspiration. “I was obsessed with Christine Kubrick and how she painted most of the artwork in her husband’s films.” Later that summer, Anderson connected with Christine, now 91 and still living in Hertfordshire (where she lived with her late husband), and asked her about collaborating.

The immediate result was a trio of knitted dresses covered in Christine’s feminine image. Other illustrated sweaters featured paintings of potted plants, detailed car windshields and her pet cat Polly, whom she shares care with Stanley. “I thought there was something interesting about the idea of putting something in the foreground that ultimately didn’t want to be there,” Anderson says. It was a touching tribute to Christine’s quiet involvement in cinema.

Eyes Wide Shut is a Christmas movie (albeit a horror one), so you’ll see some bright red poinsettias scattered throughout the film. In Anderson’s collection, the holiday favorite, which the designer found “absolutely disgusting,” often grew roots on knitted sweaters. “It looked like a very toxic plant,” he said. “I loved that idea.”

The female models wore tights over their underwear, while Anderson’s male models looked elegant in hosiery over shorts, often opting for no pants at all. “Tights are a great second skin, and they can wrinkle,” Anderson explains. “For me, it’s a must-have style.”

Anderson played with dimensions, oversized sweaters and tights with off-center satin linings that jutted out like giant pipes. Velvet coats had exaggerated shoulders, and oversized sweaters were completely disproportionate. Shirts also had giant sleeves, and trousers were set at their widest point. Heels were adorned with fringe, and flats had even bigger fringes.