A species of orchid on the summit of Pa Thien Mountain blooms in spring - Photo: Provided
Even though they walked under the forest canopy without sunlight, everyone was breathing heavily and patiently counting each step as the path became steeper. On the winding mountain path, the guide, Mr. Ho Ma, a Van Kieu man, said: “First, we need to overcome the four-legged slope.” There was no trail; each step had to cling to tree trunks and rocks. When tired, they leaned against the mountain wall. If they were too exhausted, they were only allowed to stop for a few minutes. If they rested for too long, their legs would no longer want to walk...
A path through green moss
Along the path, hundreds of species of green moss covered every rock. Lighter mosses clung to tree trunks, layer after layer. Mushrooms grew on broken and decaying trees. Some forest trees, though long dead, still stood tall, defying time and wind. At an altitude of over 1,200 meters, the air began to thin. The mountains and forests became even more solemn and majestic, a beauty that needed no embellishment. Our guide, Mr. Ho Gioi, reminded us: "If we walk quickly, we'll reach Pa Thien stream around 3 PM. This is the only path leading to the summit of Pa Thien, from where we can pass through Voi Mep peak."
The closer we got to Pa Thien stream, the more diverse the vegetation became. On the rocks, the moss was lighter in color, interspersed with nameless orchids. Upstream along Pa Thien stream, the wind blew strongly, the mountains and forests stirred, and suddenly it started to rain. The rain fell on the leaves with countless sounds, insects chirped in welcome, and birds hurriedly called to each other to find shelter. We also quickly stopped at a "lonely" rock, waiting for the rain to stop before setting up camp. Amidst the vast forest shrouded in mist and clouds, night fell quickly, the rustling of leaves and the chirping of insects harmonizing with the flickering sound of Pa Thien stream, lulling us into a peaceful sleep.
The stones lie dormant.
It's been a long time since anyone last visited Pa Thien Stream. The streambed, with its stacked rocks resembling a green ladder reaching towards the sky, is a sight to behold. While at altitudes below 500m, people usually avoid stepping on moss-covered rocks due to the risk of slipping, at altitudes above 1,400m, one must avoid stepping on the moss-free rocks. These rocks are so slippery that even moss cannot cling to them.
At the foot of Pa Thien lies a mystical, picturesque forest, most famous for its species of false cypress, short-leaved and long-leaved bamboo pine, and Podocarpus gymnosperms. Every tree, large or small, is covered in moss; the moss changes color with the weather, rain or shine. Therefore, the color of the moss is also the "color of time." These coniferous trees have taken deep root in the mountain rocks, adapting to the cold over thousands of years to weave this vast, verdant forest.
At an altitude of approximately 1,600 meters above sea level, Pa Thien is almost exclusively reserved for forest keepers, a few scientists dedicated to the forest, and those with a deep love for nature. The rocks on the summit of Pa Thien are incredibly diverse in shape, perhaps sculpted by the master artist Time itself. For ages, they have remained silently side by side, as if dreaming of a thousand-year slumber! Some passersby try to engrave their names on the rocks, as if to entrust to the mountain's stone the memory of a rare journey in their lives, but after a short time, the inscriptions are erased by wind and rain.
The vegetation on the summit of Pa Thien consists mainly of dwarf forests, tea plants, and rhododendrons. Among them are ancient tea bushes often nestled beside rocks. Legend says this tea garden was planted by King Ham Nghi's soldiers when the king traveled from Cam Lo northward to the mountainous region of Quang Tri .
Tea plants in Pa Thien grow interspersed among bamboo groves and rocks. The tea leaves are quite firm, thick, and light green; when brewed, they don't have the strong, bitter taste of tea from the midland regions. Some say that thanks to exposure to the mountain rains and winds, absorbing the pure essence of the earth and sky, the tea in Pa Thien has the ability to help people recover their health very quickly. Is that why the Van Kieu people, whenever they pass through Pa Thien, never forget to pick some tea to bring back as gifts for friends?
Pa Thien is an ideal stop to admire the peak of Voi Mep, shrouded in mist. A beauty that even the forest keepers find captivating. Pa Thien still retains many jagged rock formations, hidden amidst lush vegetation and flowers, sometimes suddenly enveloped in a mystical fog. Here, every tree, every rock, every dripping drop of water has, for thousands of years, and will continue to tell its own story about time and the endless changes of nature.
Elephant Mep...
Elephant Peak, over 1,700 meters above sea level, is surrounded by swirling clouds and wind. On the western slopes of the mountain range, hurried clouds seem to be heading to some distant place, while on the eastern slopes, clusters of white clouds are sucked down into a seemingly bottomless ravine.
Standing on the summit of Voi Mep, you can clearly hear the roaring sound of the waterfall echoing back, leaving you wondering: Where do the wind, clouds, and even the water come from, and where will they go? Ho Gioi, a man of few words, suddenly whispered: “I haven’t been to the sea, but on some beautiful days, standing on the summit of Voi Mep, I’ve seen the sea. I dream of the day I will stand by the sea and look back at the summit of Voi Mep…”
Young man Ho Gioi from Van Kieu stands beside a Podocarpus tree on the way to the summit of Voi Mep mountain - Photo: Provided.
The path to the summit of Voi Mep resembles a winding green silk ribbon, woven from millions of bamboo trees that playfully dance with the clouds and wind year-round. After traversing a long stretch, we began to venture deeper into the bamboo forest. Small-trunked bamboo stalks densely packed together, completely blocking the path. Besides bamboo, there were also some woody trees with small clusters of leaves, which at first glance looked as if they had been dead for a long time.
The higher we climbed, the stronger the wind blew. The sky would sometimes be clear and blue, but in an instant, it would be obscured by fog, creating a hazy, indistinct space where it was difficult to determine our direction. At such times, the guide had to climb a tree to reorient himself towards the mountaintop, or everyone would simply wait for the fog to clear.
On the path leading to the western slope of Voi Mep, we again encountered the wreckage of two planes that had crashed during the war. A few rusty guns and some pieces of body armor were still scattered on the ground.
Standing halfway up the summit of Voi Mep mountain and looking down towards the foothills, one sees a vast sea of swirling white mist. Clouds rush past each other, sweeping across the forests, yet just enough to create a fine drizzle that leaves countless tiny water droplets clinging to the leaves.
Pa Thien and Voi Mep, shrouded in mist and clouds throughout the four seasons, forever echo the call from the vast forest to those who love nature and yearn to experience and immerse themselves in the majestic mountains.
Climbing the peaks of Pa Thien and Voi Mep is not only about exploring and discovering the source of rivers like Hieu Giang and Thach Han in the southern part of Quang Tri province, to better understand and appreciate the homeland, but also an opportunity to contemplate life, which is as high and low as the mountains and as turbulent as the rivers.
Phan Tan Lam
Source: https://baoquangtri.vn/kham-pha-ve-dep-pa-thien-va-voi-mep-196377.htm
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