The journey to become a diplomatic envoy of the 'king of fruits'

Durian, nicknamed "king of fruits", has now become a "diplomatic messenger" in many important foreign affairs activities of Southeast Asian countries.

Durian, nicknamed “king of fruits”, has now become a “ diplomatic messenger” in many important foreign affairs activities of Southeast Asian countries. (Source: Foreign Policy)

Asserting a position in China

Durian has long been a favorite in Southeast Asia, but it has only recently emerged as a culinary phenomenon in China. The country now consumes more than 1.5 million tons of the fruit each year, with a large durian selling for about $25, most of which is shipped from neighboring Southeast Asian countries.

As durian has become China's favorite fruit, so has its appeal as a bridge between culture and politics .

Previously, all fresh durian imported into China came from Thailand, which exports three-quarters of its durian harvest abroad. Thailand remains China’s largest durian trading partner, with about $4 billion in exports each year, but its market share is rapidly shrinking as new countries enter the market of more than 1.4 billion people.

Over the past four years, China has signed a series of durian import agreements with countries in the Southeast Asian region. This strategy to attract partners worth billions of dollars has been called “durian diplomacy” by some political experts.

China received its first shipment of fresh durians from Cambodia in August 2025. The move came after Beijing signed a deal to import frozen durians from Indonesia, which has launched a cultivation development project to boost production of the fruit.

Malaysia, which has exported whole frozen durians to China since 2019, is set to enter the fresh fruit export market by 2024.

The Philippines also signed an agreement in 2023 to export fresh durian to China following a state visit by President Ferdinand Marcos Jr. to strengthen agricultural cooperation between the two countries.

And in 2022, Vietnam will start exporting fresh durian through the Guangxi gateway, becoming China's second-largest supplier, with export turnover reaching nearly 3 billion USD by 2024.

Mr. Ta Khan Khan, Professor of Southeast Asian Studies at Peking University, China, commented: "Durian clearly reflects what is happening with the leadership and relations between countries."

Most recently, in August 2025, China invited members of the Association of Southeast Asian Nations (ASEAN) to attend the first ASEAN-China Durian Festival in Beijing.

A common love for durian

US-China competition may help explain why more durians are being imported into China than ever before, observers say.

US President Donald Trump's reshaping of global trade and withdrawal from international institutions under his “America First” policy has created opportunities for China to strengthen its relations with its neighbors.

And the shared love of durian is one way to strengthen ties. “China is now trying to present itself as a responsible major power and actively cooperating with many Southeast Asian partners,” said Mr. Xie Kankan.

Durian still holds royal status across Southeast Asia, hailed as the “king of fruits.” For China, durian is a convenient delicacy. Satisfying domestic demand can strengthen neighborly ties in the region.

Using food for political purposes is nothing new, according to Sam Chapple-Sokol, a lecturer at the Global Food Institute at George Washington University.

He said this activity falls under the scope of culinary diplomacy, which has existed for thousands of years. “Imagine two ancient peoples meeting, they would talk around a fire, and often food was present around that fire,” he said.

Over the centuries, this form of diplomacy became more refined, including state banquets and special cuisine.

In recent decades, Southeast Asian countries have become particularly adept at harnessing this culinary power. Mr Chapple-Sokol notes that the popularity of Thai restaurants around the world is not a mere coincidence, but a deliberate government strategy.

Durian diplomacy is seen not only in trade deals, but also in culinary showcases aimed at attracting visiting officials, he added.

In 2022, after a lunch between Chinese Foreign Minister Wang Yi and then-Malaysian Prime Minister Ismail Sabri Yaakob, Wang praised the cheesecake he had just eaten made with Musang King durian, noting that Beijing was willing to import more tropical fruits and palm oil from the country.

Culinary diplomacy at work

In the case of durian diplomacy, Mr. Chapple-Sokol questions whether China is the main driver.

He said culinary diplomacy is often associated with middle powers. Malaysia, for example, has been using this form of soft power for the past decade. “The countries that can benefit the most from this are Thailand, Peru, Mexico.

“These are countries that are smaller than the BRICS, but they are big enough to promote and maintain a form of diplomacy like this. They may not have the military power or the GDP and economic power, but they have a lot of really strong things to offer the world in terms of food, culture, history, people,” he said.

More and more middle powers are using durian diplomacy to build bridges with each other. In February 2025, Malaysia hosted a “durian diplomacy” event at the Malaysian Embassy in Seoul, South Korea, following a similar event in Tehran, Iran, in 2024.

Speaking to the guests, Mohd Zamruni Khalid, Malaysian Ambassador to South Korea, acknowledged the role of durian in statecraft.

“Diplomacy is not just about formal engagements and high-level meetings, but also the simple pleasure of sharing a meal, exchanging stories and building connections. Today, let the durian be a symbol of our shared commitment to a brighter, more collaborative future,” said Mr. Khalid.

Whether durian diplomacy continues at a rapid pace, however, depends not only on political upheavals but also on the conditions of the times. Climate change, drought and saltwater intrusion into the delta’s freshwater reserves are seen as growing threats to durian farmers. Tackling rising greenhouse gas emissions will therefore have to be a top priority if Southeast Asian countries are to sustain the durian boom.

Source: https://baoquocte.vn/hanh-trinh-tro-thanh-su-gia-ngoai-giao-cua-vua-cac-loai-trai-cay-332492.html