Waiting... for a wisp of smoke of peace

Fishermen in Quang Nam, Quang Ngai , and Binh Dinh provinces have a similar way of painting eyes on their boats. In the past, fishermen in Tam Thanh had to strain their eyes to observe their surroundings every time they returned to shore.

For the fishermen of Tam Thanh (Tam Ky City), whenever they return from sea, the boat bobs precariously on the waves, and those on board strain their eyes searching for the winding plumes of smoke rising, as if it were a sign that "now we can reach shore, it's safe here"...

Eyes of a time of... turmoil

“Born into this life amidst the vast ocean/Regardless of the circumstances, venturing out to sea/Free to brave the storms and follow the currents/Never counting the merits, the most important thing is to be loyal to others…” – the elderly people in Tam Thanh fishing village often repeat these lines from the poem “The Boat,” which was once published by Mr. Huynh Thuc Khang in the Tieng Dan newspaper.

In Tam Thanh, boat builders often cut down the Barringtonia trees that grow all over the village to make rafters and beams. After finishing the boat and sitting down to paint the eyes, some would hum a few lines of poetry.

Old fisherman Tran Van Tam (71 years old) has the booming voice of a fisherman. On Tam Thanh beach one early spring day, we listened as he recounted stories of the turbulent times faced by the fishermen of this region. He said that the fishermen of Tam Thanh also used to make torches from reeds, a practice that lasted for about a hundred years.

Women would run to the other side of the Yangtze River to buy bundles of reeds, each as long as an oar, and place them across the boat before setting sail.

At sea, reeds are made into torches to be lit, using the light to attract fish. On shore, women in coastal areas use these fires to signal their husbands and sons to return, their eyes filled with anticipation.

Old fisherman Tran Van Tam's face bears the marks of age and a life of experience.

Mr. Tam recounted that before 1975, the fish population in Tam Thanh was so abundant that all it took was lighting a torch and the fish would swarm in, and a single net cast could yield a hundred kilograms. At the beginning of the year, there were anchovies and herring, while in the middle of the year, there were mackerel and tuna.

From the fishermen's stories describing the old Tam Thanh fishing village, we envisioned the vibrant coral reefs of Cu Lao Xanh - Binh Dinh. Every season, fish from the open sea would flock to the shore. Fishermen only needed to set up nets, and the fish would swim in on their own, which is why the locals called it "the bounty of the sea."

But the villagers at that time were constantly worried whenever their boats returned from the sea. The wives would often go out to the shore to keep watch and signal with a torch or a bonfire.

The boat only sailed a short distance towards the shore. Those on shore guessed the boat was coming to report the news. If they didn't see the soldiers coming down to the village, they would light a bonfire to signal. The fishermen rowing out at sea would tell each other, "Now that we see a wisp of smoke, let's quickly head to shore."

The eyes… Réhahn

Looking into the eyes of the villagers, I suddenly remembered the world- famous photograph by French photographer Réhahn of Mrs. Nguyen Thi Xoong in Hoi An. The lasting impression left by this photograph is her smiling eyes and the features of a life lived through years of hardship.

A fishing boat heads out to sea amidst a peaceful scene. Photo: Van Chuong

In the fishing village of Tam Thanh, there are many similar portraits. There's Mrs. Nguyen Thi Nhue (87 years old) and Mr. Tran Van Tam. Both of these people have a wistful look in their eyes when they recall the past. But then those eyes light up with smiles when they talk about a peaceful spring.

The boat eyes in Tam Thanh are usually painted by masons. From stories about painting the boat eyes, the old fishermen of Tam Thanh fishing village then turn to stories about the fishing village during times of turmoil and now.

"Now I'm so happy, so content, nothing could be better," Mr. Tam said slowly, his voice coming from deep within his chest, his eyes smiling like a portrait of Réhahn.

I was captivated by Mr. Tam's story because he told old tales so well and with so many insightful details. I suddenly remembered a time on the Tam Quan beach (Hoai Nhon district, Binh Dinh province) when I met Mr. Nguyen Van An, the same age as Mr. Tam, who was painting the eyes of a boat. Mr. An also steered the conversation from the boat's eyes to the eyes of people, reflecting on the current times, and then spoke about this spring.

The coastal village of Tam Thanh has now become a famous mural village. But few people know that, in the past, the village was just a very narrow sandbar situated between the sea on one side and the Truong Giang River on the other. Whenever invaders attacked, there was nowhere to hide. Some women carried their belongings and fled to Binh Hai and Binh Minh communes, while others rowed boats out to sea to fish.

On a spring afternoon, the elders in Tam Thanh fishing village said that the year of the Dragon (Giáp Thìn), according to the celestial stems and earthly branches, carries the destiny of Phú Đăng Hỏa - ​​which symbolizes an oil lamp.

In the old days, looking out at the sea towards the villages, you'd see only pitch blackness. It was terrifying! You couldn't tell what disaster was lurking. But now, both on shore and out at sea, everything is brightly lit. The night lights are like a thousand pairs of eyes watching over the spring sea...

Source: https://baoquangnam.vn/ngong-nhanh-khoi-binh-an-3131005.html