When the fashion game is no longer just for critics

If before, the right to comment belonged only to famous fashion editors sitting in the front row, now, anyone can become a critic, as long as they own a social media account.

Paris Fashion Week 2025 attracts a huge wave of comments on social networks - Photo: The Fashion Spot

According to WWD magazine, the explosion of online fashion commentary and "watch parties" has sparked debate about the limits of free speech in an industry that values ​​controlling image and reputation as much as fashion.

"Anyone can be a critic"

Paris Fashion Week 2025   While the event was going on, content creator Lyas (Elias Medini) organized "watch parties" at the La Caserne center.

Here, thousands of people watch live shows by Dior, Chanel, Saint Laurent or Balenciaga on a giant laptop-like screen.

“Today, anyone can be a critic, a commentator, or even a journalist—like me,” Lyas told WWD .

According to Lefty , Lyas's shows have attracted 34 million views and generated media value of approximately $3.9 million across platforms like Instagram, TikTok, Xiaohongshu, and X (Twitter).

The interaction rate of the "watch party" event organized by Lyas reached 13.5%, 13 times higher than the average of this year's fashion season.

“I wanted people to come to a place where they could freely talk, debate, and even say what they thought, without being afraid to say, ‘This event is sponsored by Dior, so I can’t say that,’” Lyas says.

Audience members participating in the "watch party" not only watch, but also scan QR codes to rate, go on stage to share opinions and debate heatedly like real critics - Photo: Diora Muslimova

Comments also need to "play fair"

With the democratization of fashion criticism, designers are feeling the pressure.

Speaking to WWD just days before launching his first women's collection for Dior, Creative Director Jonathan Anderson likened his feelings to entering a "colosseum."

"I've never been under so much pressure in my life… Before, it was considered cool to love fashion, but now it seems like the new fashion is to criticize fashion," Anderson said.

Former design director Edward Buchanan of Bottega Veneta even had to speak up on his personal Instagram page: "Please learn more about fashion culture and history before criticizing just to get views.

I'm not talking about doing a cursory search using ChatGPT. Really learn. Play fair, people."

Mr. Edward Buchanan hopes that social media users will be careful with words that can hurt others, and give designers respect and time so they can fully concentrate on their creativity - Photo: IGNV

Professor Benjamin Simmenauer, Research Director at the French Fashion Institute, believes that the wave of fashion criticism on social networks stems from a loss of trust in the media.

“When the public feels that mainstream commentary is too soft or lacking in objectivity, they will fill that void themselves,” he said.

(From left to right) Brenda Weischer, Kim Russell and Luke Meagher are prominent "fashion commentators" on social media - Photo: IGNV

According to German influencer Brenda Weischer, mainstream media is “a decade late” in catching up to this trend.

She hopes that fashion magazines can collaborate with celebrity commentators, equipping them with in-depth knowledge to create fashion content that is both informative and engaging.

The wave of "free criticism" also brought new opportunities, making fashion more accessible and forcing the industry to be more open to the public.

As Lyas puts it: “My goal is to open the door for a new generation of fashion lovers who once felt like they had no place in this world .”

TRUC NHI

Source: https://tuoitre.vn/khi-cuoc-choi-thoi-trang-khong-con-la-cua-rieng-gioi-phe-binh-20251104175636175.htm