I was overwhelmed by the beauty of the brocade patterns when I wandered into the Y Tý market ( Ha Giang ). Everyone there was wearing traditional ethnic clothing. The market burst with vibrant colors against the gray and white backdrop of the rain and thick fog.
The backs of the looms
After observing for a while, I gradually learned to distinguish the costumes of each ethnic group. The H'mong traditional clothing was full of colorful patterns, and the Red Dao costume was equally striking with its two-tone red and black. The Ha Nhi costume, on the other hand, was like a subdued brushstroke on a colorful painting, with its dark blue and black colors.
In Sa Pa, I met an elderly Dao woman sitting on a street corner sewing patterns onto square pieces of fabric, giving me the opportunity to learn more about the various patterns of the local ethnic groups. On the second floor of Sa Pa market – where the Hmong and Red Dao people gather – handmade brocade products are sold.
When mentioning brocade, everyone thinks of Sapa with its small market and the image of women carrying their children on their backs or children bustling along the streets, inviting tourists to buy brocade products.
Ha Giang also has the Lung Tam Cooperative, where H'mong women come together to preserve and develop the traditional linen weaving craft. Here, many brocade patterns are designed in a modern, creative style with high practical application.
The traditional hand-weaving of linen involves 41 steps, including: sowing seeds, harvesting flax plants, separating fibers, spinning flax, joining fibers, winding, weaving, washing, and drying... requiring considerable time and effort.
The rudimentary looms, bathed in the afternoon sun, looked as beautiful as a scene from a movie. Perhaps, no matter how hard art tries, it can only truly reflect the beauty of the simplest, most ordinary things in life. Fortunately, I was able to witness these workers diligently at their looms without needing to buy a movie ticket.
Cong Don village, Zuoih commune, Nam Giang district is considered the cradle of traditional brocade weaving of the Co Tu people in Quang Nam province. My Nghiep village (Ninh Phuoc district) is a traditional brocade weaving village that has existed for more than four centuries of the Cham community in Ninh Thuan.
Ha Ri village (Vinh Hiep commune, Vinh Thanh district) is a place that still preserves many distinctive cultural features of the Bana people, including the traditional brocade weaving craft. Many tiny dots on the map of Vietnamese brocade are preserved through generations by the slender backs of Vietnamese women.
Extending the life of brocade weaving
Brocade fabrics are used by many Vietnamese designers in their clothing designs, creating unique and distinctive styles. One prominent name is designer Minh Hanh. She brought to Paris, the fashion capital of the world, a collection titled "Breath from the Vietnamese Mountains and Forests," featuring ao dai (traditional Vietnamese dress) and contemporary outfits made from brocade fabrics of the Mong and Co Tu ethnic groups.
There is also the "Silk Thread" fashion collection by designer Thuy Nguyen, which received much attention for its outfits inspired by the folk tales of the Thai ethnic group. The main materials used for this collection are brocade, woven fabrics, lace, satin, etc., skillfully combined.
Recently, designer Tran Thien Khanh's Soul of Ethnic collection, inspired by the patterns on Hmong brocade fabrics, was showcased at Fashion Art Toronto – part of Toronto Fashion Week in Canada.
Each designer, with their own artistic perspective, has created unique fashion pieces. Around the world, many designers also favor brocade fabrics in their creations.
The story of Aldegonde Van Alsenoy, a Belgian designer living and working in central Vietnam with her brand AVANA, is a prime example of pursuing the "slow fashion" model. In contrast to the "fast fashion" industry, AVANA offers creative, handcrafted garments made from brocade fabrics. Each design is unique.
An American founded the brand Ethnotek, which sells travel bags with minimalist designs, focusing on functionality but with a unique touch: traditional brocade fabrics. Jake Orake, an American who traveled extensively throughout Vietnam, fell in love with the brocade fabrics of ethnic minorities and came up with the idea of starting a business selling products made from brocade.
Through Ethnotek, we learned about the non-profit organization Tip Me (tip-me.org), founded by Helen Deacon from Germany. This organization aims to connect artisans in many countries around the world with consumers to spread gratitude.
Tip Me helps families of artisans raise funds to repair their motorbikes, pay for their children's school fees, or buy food for their families. Companies like Ethnotek can send a portion of their product sales to support Tip Me's operating costs, and consumers can donate money directly to the artisans they care about and want to help.
If we were to liken the traditional brocade weaving industry to a young woman, she would surely be living a vibrant life, despite all the ups and downs she has experienced. I believe that in the future, there will be even more people who will wholeheartedly dedicate themselves to her...
Source: https://baoquangnam.vn/doi-song-ruc-ro-cua-tho-cam-3143764.html
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