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Velvet flower hairpin - The mark of Chinese art and culture

Báo Quốc TếBáo Quốc Tế26/03/2024

Frequently appearing in historical films, velvet flower hairpins have gradually become a new fashion trend. However, few people know that this is a very unique cultural heritage of China.
Velvet flowers are hairpins made from natural silk and copper wire. In ancient times, velvet flowers were often used in folk festivals and as ceremonial decorations and were only used by the royal family.
Trâm hoa nhung - Dấu ấn của nghệ thuật và văn hóa Trung Quốc
Velvet hairpins appear frequently in the famous drama “Story of Yanxi Palace”. (Source: Hong Kong 01)

A long and tumultuous history

There are many legends surrounding the time when velvet flowers appeared. The earliest was from the Qin Dynasty, when Qin Shi Huang gave his concubine "Five-colored Song Ziyu" - a symbol of royal dignity and eternal love. During the Tang Dynasty, velvet flowers became more and more sophisticated and were considered as tributes to the royal court, the world called them "palace flowers". During the reign of Wu Zetian, velvet flowers were listed as royal tributes in the Yangzhou region. They became objects that only royalty and nobles could use. During the Song Dynasty, the demand for velvet flowers in society at that time was greater than any other type of handicraft. The velvet flower industry flourished during the Qing Dynasty, especially during the reigns of Kangxi and Qianlong. The Nanjing area became a bustling flower city, velvet flowers were sold all over the country.
Trâm hoa nhung - Dấu ấn của nghệ thuật và văn hóa Trung Quốc
Velvet flower hairpins were once considered tributes reserved for royalty only. (Source: XiaoHongShu)
However, with the continuous development of industrial technology, due to not being able to compete with other accessories, velvet flowers gradually became less known and increasingly faded. It can be seen that in history, although there was a period of very prosperous development, velvet flowers were also forgotten. The public's interest in historical films and recent government policies have gradually revived this cultural heritage.

A symbol of Chinese culture

The shape of velvet flowers is often taken from auspicious symbols in folk life. The word velvet flower in Chinese also sounds similar to prosperity, meaning luck and goodness. The main colors are bright red and pink, in addition to green and yellow in the middle... Most of the traditional motifs of velvet flowers are phoenix, pomegranate and flowers such as jasmine, white orchid, hibiscus... These motifs have similarities with the traditional folk art theme and the typical shape of the Chinese people. Velvet flowers cannot be compared with gold, silver and jewels, nor do they have the natural spirituality of jade, but their beauty is extremely delicate and elegant, clearly showing the beauty of the East.

Exquisite traditional handicrafts

The technique of making velvet flowers is very special, it cannot be replaced by machines but must be done entirely by hand. Besides the main materials of silk and copper wire, to make velvet flowers, many other materials are needed such as: dye, white latex, rosin oil... The auxiliary tools for this process are also very diverse.
Trâm hoa nhung - Dấu ấn của nghệ thuật và văn hóa Trung Quốc
To get smooth velvet, the artisan must use even and tight hand pressure. (Source: The Paper CN)
The velvet production process involves many steps, including silk cooking, dyeing, drying, crocheting, ironing, cutting frames, shaping, and attaching accessories. Each technique is rigorous, the most basic of which is crocheting. After the velvet is fixed and brushed, it will be clamped by spiral copper wires at both ends. Then it is cut into small pieces, and the artisan will use his hands to twist each end in opposite directions at the same time. This special process demonstrates the wisdom of the ancient Chinese.

The link between past and present

Faced with the decline of velvet flower making techniques, in the 1990s, the Nanjing Folklore Museum took measures to preserve this cultural form. In 2007, the Jiangsu Provincial Government officially listed velvet flower making techniques on the provincial-level intangible cultural heritage list. The custom of wearing velvet flowers for good luck continues to this day. Nanjing people still wear velvet flowers on important occasions such as weddings, New Year's Eve or Mid-Autumn Festival to pray for prosperity. Zhao Shuxian is a typical inheritor of Nanjing velvet flower making skills. The velvet flower hairpins in the film Story of Yanxi Palace were made by him. Thanks to the popularity of the film, velvet flowers are becoming more and more known.
Trâm hoa nhung - Dấu ấn của nghệ thuật và văn hóa Trung Quốc
Mr. Trieu Thuc Tien makes vases using velvet flower making techniques. (Source: Kaiwind)
The technique of making velvet flowers is very magical, it can be created on anything: flowers, birds, fish, insects... To suit today's tastes, Mr. Trieu, with his constant efforts and creativity, has created velvet flowers with different shapes, in addition to hairpins, there are also bag hangers, decorative flowers, wall paintings... He believes that the inheritance and promotion of cultural traditions must have continuous innovation. "I hope that velvet flowers will not only belong to the past but they will actually be used in our daily lives."

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