Eel vermicelli shop selling for more than half a century in Ninh Binh

Ba Phan's eel vermicelli, which opened in Rong Market in 1973, has been passed down through three generations with three branches, making it a great breakfast option in Ninh Binh .

A bowl of eel vermicelli at Mrs. Phan's restaurant costs 50,000 VND at 195 Tran Hung Dao Street, Ninh Binh City.

Eel vermicelli is one of the famous delicacies in Ninh Binh, alongside goat meat and crispy rice, and is a popular breakfast choice for locals.

Located on Tran Hung Dao Street, Ba Phan's eel noodle soup restaurant, with a history spanning over 50 years and passed down through three generations, is a recommended address for tourists by the Ninh Binh Tourism Promotion Information Center.

Mrs. Phan started selling eel vermicelli in 1973. At that time, the shop was a small shack in the Rong Market area, Van Giang Ward, and would sell out by 5 am to 7 pm. In 1996, she passed away, and Mr. Tran Van Tien and his two brothers inherited their mother's business, opening three adjacent branches at 195, 197, and 199 Tran Hung Dao Street.

For nearly 40 years running his eatery, Mr. Tien has maintained his mother's recipe for eel vermicelli, which he calls "the traditional flavor." The eels served at his restaurant are raised in the brackish waters of Ninh Binh and Thanh Hoa provinces, about the size of a finger, with a brownish-pink back and a yellow belly. The eels are washed, drained, and the slime is removed with salt before the bones are carefully removed.

The owner puts a pot of water on the stove, waits for it to boil, then adds the cleaned eels in batches, stirring and checking to see if the eel meat is cooked to the right degree. "The cooking time depends on each person's feel and experience," Mr. Tien said. After removing the cooked eels, Mr. Tien uses his hands to separate the meat along the eel's body, discarding the bones and the bitter-tasting black intestines.

The eel vermicelli dish is cooked through.

The eel meat is marinated with herbs, spices, and pepper, then simmered in a pan until it releases its juices. Adding lard and fried onions, Mr. Tien continues simmering until a small crackling sound is heard in the pan, and the meat doesn't become mushy or break apart when picked up. Mr. Tien explains that this method ensures the eel meat in Ninh Binh is firm and chewy, unlike the crispy fried eel in Hanoi or the soft simmered eel in Nghe An.

After filtering, the eel bones are placed in a large pot along with crushed lemongrass to make broth for the whole day. Fresh bones are continuously added, while the old bones are removed, ground into a paste, and strained to extract the broth, similar to how crab is prepared. By adding layers of bones throughout the day, the eel vermicelli broth has a dark brown color, is thick and rich, and has a robust flavor.

A bowl of eel vermicelli at this restaurant, besides the vermicelli and eel meat, also includes fried onions, coriander, betel leaves, dill, and scallions, served with a plate of fresh vegetables including perilla, mint, and finely chopped banana blossoms, a few slices of lime, and chili sauce. The eel meat is dark brown, the vermicelli is chewy and translucent, both blending into the broth under a layer of aromatic herbs. Diners only notice the vermicelli and eel when they begin to taste it. The price of a bowl of eel vermicelli is 50,000 VND.

Enjoying eel vermicelli at Mr. Tien's restaurant on March 29th, Nguyen Tran Huy, 28, from Ho Chi Minh City, said this was the dish that impressed him most during his trip to Ninh Binh. "I could feel the firm, chewy texture of the meat, followed by a gradually sweet taste," he said. The broth had a rich, distinctive flavor characteristic of Northern Vietnamese cuisine, while the eel meat had a mild sweetness that suited the taste of people in the South, Huy added.

Eel vermicelli is served with fresh vegetables, finely chopped banana blossoms, lime, and fresh chili peppers.

Currently, the restaurant is managed by Ms. Tran Thi Lien, Mr. Tien's daughter-in-law, who took over three years ago. The restaurant is open from 4 AM to 1 PM and from 4 PM to 9 PM. On average, the restaurant sells about 200 bowls of noodles a day. On weekends, holidays, and Tet (Lunar New Year), the number increases to around 400-500 bowls due to the large number of tourists, including foreign visitors.

Currently, Ba Phan's eel vermicelli restaurant has two branches at 195 and 199 Tran Hung Dao Street. The branch at 197 has moved to Dong Thanh Street, near Hoa Lu Old Town, making it convenient for tourists to combine sightseeing with enjoying Ninh Binh's specialty breakfast dish.

Article and photos: Quynh Mai

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