Just like other localities, from the 23rd day of the 12th lunar month onwards, the atmosphere of welcoming the Lunar New Year in Hue begins to become bustling. The Tet flower markets in front of Phu Van Lau, Thuong Bac, and the Central Cultural House start to be ablaze with the vibrant colors of yellow apricot blossoms, peonies, and chrysanthemums… In recent years, the pink peach blossoms from the North have also been added, making the Tet atmosphere even more rosy.
Large markets like Dong Ba, An Cuu, Tay Loc, and Xep Market are bustling with activity, filled with banana blossoms, votive paper, and other Tet goods. The vendors and buyers are incredibly lively. The rice cake makers on Nhat Le Street are also busy day and night. But perhaps the most joyful occasion is the offering to the Kitchen God on the 23rd day of the 12th lunar month. Unlike in the North where people often buy red carp to release as an offering, the people of Hue prepare a very elaborate offering. Every household prepares three trays of offerings, varying in size depending on their circumstances: one tray on the ancestral altar, one in the kitchen for the Kitchen God, and one outdoors for the souls of those without a place to be worshipped. Therefore, on that day, the streets of Hue are filled with the fragrant scent of incense and the bright red glow of burning votive paper in front of each house.
Playing Bài Vụ, a traditional court game played during the spring festival. Photo: Thanh Hòa
As Tet (Lunar New Year) approaches, the number of people in Hue going to the market to shop for Tet increases. Every year, my mother, no matter how busy she is, always makes sure to gather her things and go buy a few bunches of bananas, a few kilograms of fresh ginger, ten kilograms of fragrant sticky rice, some pickled onions, a couple of kilograms of pork and beef, and a whole chicken.
Nowadays, cakes, candies, and fruits are readily available, but my mother and most of the women in Hue still choose to make them themselves. On the 28th or 29th of Tet (Lunar New Year), my father prepares the sticky rice cakes (banh chung and banh tet), my mother makes the candied fruit, my youngest sister arranges flowers on the altars, and I, as the eldest, am tasked with tidying the altars inside and out. In the evening, by the glowing fire of the sticky rice cakes, my mother carefully sets up a charcoal stove to make the candied fruit. One year, it was cold and rainy, and my siblings and I huddled by the fire watching my mother make the candied fruit. I will always remember the strong, fragrant smell of burning wood, the intoxicating aroma of candied ginger, and the slightly pungent, yet subtly fragrant scent of my mother's woolen sweater, infused with the scent of eucalyptus oil – a warm, intimate, and unforgettable experience.
The rituals and offerings during the three days of Tet in Hue are truly elaborate and solemn. To give an example, even in my family, although we've simplified things considerably, during the three days of Tet, from the first to the third, we offer three meals a day. The offerings don't need to be elaborate; we offer whatever we have, in the morning, at noon, and in the evening. Each time, my father carefully wears a headscarf and long robe, washes his hands, rinses his mouth, respectfully offers incense, and pours wine and tea. He often makes us stand beside him to listen to his instructions and explanations, and after many times, we've learned a little more about these ancient customs.
While Tet (Vietnamese New Year) is celebrated among the common people, Hue also has its own Tet customs within the royal court. In recent years, the Hue Imperial Citadel Relics Conservation Center has restored and organized many royal Tet rituals, partly to serve tourists and partly to preserve and restore ancient rituals within the Forbidden City that had long since faded away. These restored rituals are meticulously and systematically organized within the Imperial Citadel, attracting a large number of visitors.
Among these ceremonies was the Thướng Tiêu ceremony in the palace. From dawn, while the mist still hung thick over the city walls, a large crowd had already gathered outside the Hiển Nhơn gate. In front was the ceremonial music band with drums and gongs, followed by several officials in flowing blue and red robes and winged hats. Finally, a line of imperial guards in yellow and red tunics, wearing conical hats and leg wraps, carried a large bamboo pole, approximately ten meters long, with a bundle of leaves attached to the top, holding a lantern shaped like a rice dumpling and a small triangular flag.
As the auspicious hour approached, gongs and drums sounded, and the procession carrying the ceremonial pole advanced into the Imperial Citadel with great solemnity and grandeur. After a long while, they reached the Thế Miếu, the temple dedicated to the Nguyễn dynasty kings. On the lawn in front of the Thế Miếu, an altar was already set up, with incense smoke rising. Beside the altar, dignitaries in ceremonial robes respectfully offered incense. After the ceremony, it was time for the New Year's Eve celebration. A dozen people cheered, pushing and pulling, until the ceremonial pole stood upright in the courtyard. When the pole was raised high and fluttered in the wind, everyone was filled with joy and excitement. Thus, the New Year had officially arrived in the Forbidden City.
Another unique spring ritual was the changing of the guard ceremony and the imperial palace parade. Right in front of the Ngo Mon Gate, the imperial guards stood in neat rows, swords drawn, their presence imposing. They were always accompanied by a ceremonial band playing lively ceremonial music. At the time of the changing of the guard, the commander, clad in brocade robes and holding a drawn sword, pointed it straight up to the sky and shouted: "Enter the palace!" Following the shout, the soldiers marched into the city through the side gate, as the central gate was reserved only for the emperor. Watching the majestic imperial guards march through the gate, with flags fluttering everywhere and gongs and drums resounding, everyone watching showed a mixture of delight and astonishment, especially the foreign visitors.
Hien Nhon Gate before the Thượng Tiêu ceremony. Photo: Thanh Hoa
The soldiers paraded around the Thái Hòa Palace, both for the enjoyment of visitors and seemingly reenacting the scene of the imperial guards patrolling to protect the emperor during the spring festivities, as they did hundreds of years ago.
According to historical records and anecdotes, the spring rituals in the Nguyen Dynasty's imperial palace held many unusual aspects. Dr. Phan Thanh Hai, a member of the National Cultural Heritage Council and Director of the Department of Culture and Sports of Thua Thien Hue province, stated that during the Nguyen Dynasty, ceremonial activities before and after the Lunar New Year were always organized very solemnly and meticulously. These rituals often had unique characteristics, elevated to the status of formal customs, and therefore tended to emphasize the ceremonial aspect rather than the celebratory one. This differed from spring rituals in the common people's lives, which generally focused more on the celebratory aspect than the ceremonial one, primarily to allow the people to enjoy themselves after a year of hard work.
Besides the rituals, the spring banquets in the royal palace were also very lavish and elaborate. The ingredients for the royal cuisine came from three main sources: purchased from markets in the capital or surrounding areas, tribute from local regions, and imported from abroad.
The springtime celebration in Hue evokes the traditional Tet (Lunar New Year) atmosphere and briefly recalls the Tet celebrations of the Nguyen Dynasty's imperial court. This serves both to recapture the traditional Tet atmosphere of the ancient capital, which is still preserved today, and to demonstrate the benevolent governance of the ancient emperors. Reflecting on the past and the present, everyone desires that officials, regardless of era, should always prioritize the welfare of the people, prioritizing their own well-being over their own. That is the true blessing for all.
Text and photos: Thanh Hoa
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